Ursula Sew A Long – Week 3 – Building the skirt bottom

I hope that you have a cosplay beginning to take shape by week 3!  Let’s continue to give our Sea Witch more life!  This week we’ll be working on quilting and assembling the bottom of the cosplay.

Using all of the tentacles that you prepared last week you can choose to quilt them however you’d like.  This week’s video is about two different ways that you could quilt them with your home sewing machine and I’ll share some photos of my quilting on the longarm.  Go ahead and do all of the tentacles, cut them apart from one another if you need to, but don’t cut out the full shape yet.

There you have it, two ways to quilt your tentacles on your machine.  Now with my long arm I loaded them on to the roller system and started at the top and went down the line.  I learned quickly that it was easier to do the squiggles (the technical quilting term is meander) first, and then go back and do the inside of all the suckers second.  This made it easier to cut the jump stitches between the suckers.


The next thing that we’ll need to do is make a line of stitching around the outside of the tentacle.  This is important because we’ll be working from the back of the piece next.  So roll it up and get ready to turn it around, we want to stitch the basic shape of your tentacle through all of the layers we’ve just made.  You will want to use a longer stitch length, a 4 or 5 would be great incase any of these stitches show later they’ll be easier to rip out, and use a bobbin thread color that pops on black, it’ll make this next step easier.

After you’ve stitched this line.  You are going to layer it up with the lack Lycra that you’ve got hanging out.  I cut my black Lycra to be slightly oversized from the size of my tentacles.  Lay the black Lycra over the worksurface, right side up, then put the tentacle right side down against Lycra.  You should now be seeing those contrasting bobbin threads from the last step.  You’re your ball point pins to pin the Lycra in place to be able to sew these together.

Use your pattern piece to mark the mini line so you know where to stop sewing the side seams.  Sew these together, being sure to backstitch at both ends, repeat for remaining tentacles.  Check out the video about this below.

If you made the mini skirt version, or a smaller size with a singe tentacle shape too you don’t need to assemble the individual bits, just stitch around all of them and then trim them out as one big piece and turn.

After you’ve stitched all of the Lycra to the quilted Super Structure foam clip out the shape of the tentacles.  Trim to a ¼” to ½” seam allowance, and then go back and cut out all of the super structure foam that remains in the seam allowance.  Peel the cotton fabric from the Super Structure foam, and ONLY remove the foam.  After this you can turn all of the tentacles right side out.  Now its time to construct the actual skirt.  Match the top of a tentacle to the next one and ONLY sew the Lycra to the next piece of Lycra.  Repeat for all of the tentacles.  After you’ve finished the Lycra then its time to do the same with the Super Structure foam.  This time, rather than turning the Super Structure to the inside to conceal the seams, turn it towards the right size, making exposed seams on the inside of the skirt bottom.  While there will be exposed seams here, they are up high, and as such, you won’t see them from the outside of the cosplay.

After you’ve done this, you can test fit the skirt to see how its going to fit!  YAY!

Another week done.  Next week we’ll put it all together and see the finished cosplay, before all of the accessories.

Click HERE to download the supply list for this part of the build! 

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